January 10, 2025 | in defense of oak

Let's Review the Case

The relationship between oak and wine is oftentimes analyzed from a point of contention, and yet, oak can be responsible for some of the most admired qualities found within a wine. Do you enjoy lush texture, smooth tannins,and ageability? Hey, thanks, oak! For some context, it's no coincidence that the most expensive wines in the world all see some sort of oak aging. It's all about balancing complexities of aroma and texture. The choice to use oak is a deeply personal one, varying from winemaker to winemaker, and sometimes from wine to wine. Think of oak like make-up: depending on the occasion (or grape), sometimes the au naturel look is more appropriate than a bold red lip and winged eye. In choosing to utilize this vessel, winemakers are also choosing to impart unique flavors and characteristics on the wine. However, those resulting qualities exist on a nuanced spectrum based on what kind of oak is being used. For example, American oak comes from a larger-grained species of tree than its French or Hungarian counterparts and tends to be more pronounced in its influence on the wine. New oak will be bolder in its presentation, while neutral oak will be much more subtle. In our analysis, we must hold space for competing truths: texture is different from flavor and not all oak is created equal. As we taste through examples of oak-aged wines, ask yourself, is my issue with oak or heavy-handed imbalance?

Our Defensive Line-Up: the 2023 'Only Always' from Fossil & Fawn (wait, this sees oak?), the 2019 Chardonnay from Malatinszky (okay, I think I'm starting to get it), the 2022 'L'alouette' from Domaine du Chat Huant (no, wait, THIS sees oak?), and the 2018 Blason D'Issan (okay, I definitely get it now).

May this be a reparative experience for us all. No objections, please.

Fossil & Fawn 'Only Always' Willamette Valley 2023

Malatinszky Chardonnay 'Noblesse Siklósi' Villány 2019

Domaine du Chat Huant 'L'alouette' Vin de France 2022

Château d'Issan 'Blason d'Issan' Margaux AOC 2018