Bodegas Albamar Albariño Rías Baixas DO 2023

The name Albamar combines the name of the winemaking family—Alba—with ‘mar’: the sea that has such an important influence on the climate and soil of the vineyards they farm. When Luis Alba planted vines a generation ago, near the mouth of the Río Umia, it was to produce wines for local consumption. Luis’s son Xurxo took over the operation in 2006 and has succeeded in gaining the attention of the world for his Galician albariños. Xurxo has moved the winery toward sustainable growing and winemaking practices, although he freely admits that the proximity to the Atlantic—although essential in contributing to the unique expression of the wines—poses unique pressures from fungal disease. After harvest, the grapes are fermented whole-cluster with indigenous yeasts, remain unfined, and do not undergo malolactic fermentation. This cuvée sits on its lees for 5 months in steel vats; the lees aging lends a creamy roundness that balances perfectly the salt-spray acidity indicative of the region and the grape. Sustainably grown, organically grown, low-intervention/natural wine, vegan.