Closerie du Chêne 'Christiana' Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC 2018

Catherine and Christian Grébau gave up careers in Paris (cultural events and aeronautics, respectively) in 2015 to get their hands dirty farming a small hectare of vines inherited from Catherine’s family in Saint Christophe des Bardes in the Libournais. The vines were planted in 1956 on the “cote nord” of the appellation, and bound by contract in the beginning, the couple sold their fruit to the local cooperative, all the while working ceaselessly to convert the plot to organic viticulture. After Christian’s sudden death in 2016, Catherine resolutely forged ahead, and through the next three vintages accomplished the conversion to certified organic farming while simultaneously making some of the most impressive wines the appellation has seen, all by using natural winemaking methods, including native yeast fermentation and low or zero sulfur addition. Finally the toll of living alone, combined with some medical issues, made Catherine decide to call it quits with the 2020 vintage. We’re lucky enough to get this 2018, a true Saint-Émilion gem. Merlot along with a tiny amount of cabernet franc were destemmed prior to a long, gentle maceration, with elevage taking place in a combination of stainless steel, used barriques, and amphora. This cuvée strikes a rare balance between serious composition and ageability and a joyous drinkability in the present moment. An elegant nose opens the show with layers of dark fruit including plum, blackberry, black raspberry, and candied violets. The palate is succulent and silky - think “velvet-gloved brass knuckles” - with more meaty dark fruit tones accompanied by hints of chocolate-covered raspberries, cacao nibs, tobacco, and leather. For delicious femme fatale vibes, look no further. Certified organic, low-intervention/natural wine.